5 Steps to Sampling your products.

I have been working on some sampling for the re-brand launch. To those of you who don't know the ins and outs of the fashion industry or the sampling process. Look no further...

There is a pretty long list of things that need to be organised before you get to the sampling stage. However, I will dedicate another post to this. As Scotch Bonnet has been in my head for a while now, I have already reached the sampling stage.

1. The Paper Pattern

So once you have decided what your final collection looks like (this could be a rough line-up at this point) you will need to create a template for the product. This template is called a pattern and at this point, you just want to work with paper to create the template. Once the sample is approved then you will want to turn this pattern into a card piece so that you can re-use it and it will last longer.

2. The Toile

This is where you practice sewing up the pattern you have created to check if the pattern is correct. This stage may start as something very basic, with no linings or finishes. It is best to choose a fabric that is less expensive but represents the same composition as the final fabric you will be using. The first toile may be a quick run-up. This is what I usually do, my first toile, usually has marks all over it for edits I would like to make to the pattern.

Then, when you are more certain about the shape and fit, you can make up a full toile with lining and finishing. This gives you a lot of information to do with the process of making the product. It is also useful as you might still make mistakes but you know you are not going to ruin the final good quality expensive fabrics. The toiling stage may be quite straight forward but more often than not, it will go back and fourth until you feel you have the right shape/ fit and it matches your design.

3. The First Sample

This is the first fully made sample using the chosen fabrics. Once this is complete it can be checked over and tried out, you want to check fit, structure, findings, etc. If you are a small business start-up and you are looking to keep costs down. You may take on this role yourself. However, if you have some funds to invest in your start-up or you don't possess the skills required, then you will hire a sample machinist to do this part of the process for you. They will send you the first finished sample and you can then compare this with your designs and initial ideas. If you are working on this stage yourself, it is a little easier to quickly make changes, but it is one of the most time-consuming stages.

I have a sample machinist who has been working on some of my designs, but I have also been making some. This is a combination of putting the right people on the job early and keeping costs down at this point in re-launching my business.

4. The Checks and Edits

When the sample is ready for checks, you want to look at several factors. With one of my recent designs, my sample machinist sent it back to me with a guide of how the fabric was, how well the pattern was translated, how long each step of construction took, and if they would recommend any changes. We considered at this point making a change to one of the fabrics. It is a beautiful boucle boiled wool, but there was a real spongey feel to the fabric that started to stretch when the machinist was working with it. It also needed a pre-wash as it was wool and I hadn't prepped that so it did shrink a lot under the steam iron. So the fabric got a pre-steam to help. I then make changes to fabrics, findings, and patterns as per requirements and we go again with another sample.

5. The Finished Sample

Once I am 100% happy with the product then It can be ticked off as complete. Usually in industry, you would now bag it and seal the bag, this is how a sealed sample is named. It is ready to be sent for production and needs no further edits.